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Sunlight scattered on the surrounding snow as we hiked single file, crampons strapped to our boots, up Sólheimajökull, Iceland’s southernmost glacier—a 650-foot-thick tongue of solid ice spanning 17 square miles. Black peaks jutted out like dorsal fins from the jagged, white-capped hills around us—forged by eruptions of the volcano Katla, which churned far below ground … Read more